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Edward Whymper was an artist who had been commissioned to make drawings of the Alps for the second edition of Peaks, Passes and Glaciers, the guidebook to the Alps. Although he had never seen a mountain before his first glimpse of the Matterhorn in 1861, he immediately tried to scale the summit, a feat considered impossible by the best mountaineers of the time. Although that attempt and subsequent ones ended in defeat, Whymper reached his goal in 1865, but his triumph was dampened when four of his six companions plunged down an abyss to their deaths, an event that would haunt him for the rest of his life.
The Matterhorn, at 4478m (14,691 ft.), is not the highest mountain in Europe but is one of the most popular, and as one of the most frequently climbed mountains, its degree of difficulty is often underestimated, giving it one of the highest death rates in the world. A victim of its own popularity, large numbers of climbers and the various maneuvers they use to overtake each other, increase the likelihood of accidents.
Accessible from the popular ski resort of Zermatt (nestled beneath the mountain’s north face) Switzerland or Cervinia, Italy, ascending the mountain is only for experienced climbers in top physical shape, and even then they’re advised to hire a guide. But there are many 4000m peaks in the area for less experienced climbers. Hornli Ridge and Lion Ridge are considered the easiest routes because of the long sections of fixed ropes and ladders that enable local guides to get their clients up quickly. More experienced climbers tackle the classic routes such as the Zmutt and Furggen Ridges; the most experienced test their skills on the North Face.
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